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The ultimate workshop November 21-22nd Emmeloord

I’ve been teaching workshops for a few years now, most workshops run for a full day and although very intense there is always so much more to learn, so most students visit the workshops several times. The reason for this is very simple, I never try to duplicate workshops, there are so many things you can do with lighting, location, styling, the models etc. that it would be a shame to teach the same workshop material over and over…..

 

For the one day workshops I have several themes, for example “working on location”, “working with artificial and available light”, “Duo shoots”, “Masks”, “Smoke”, “Retouching” etc. etc. all these topics are so broad that they are already difficult to jam into one day…. so last year the idea actually grew to do a multiple day workshop, however when I do something I always want to make sure that what I deliver is solid, there is no sense in doing a workshop in 2 days or 3 days that can be taught in one day by just talking faster…..

Manon October 3 2014 2019BW

So slowly the idea for the “multiple day workshop” grew and got more shape.
After the first trials the students actually came up with the name and called it “The Ultimate workshop” and I have to say I agree and use that name for these workshops.

 

In 2-3 days you will get so much information it will make your head spin, we are working as a small team (group size is always limited to max 10-12 people depending on the location) to create literally a multitude of different scenarios. The ultimate workshops are the best workshops I can teach, and I dare to say, probably the best on the market if you’re into model photography.

 

What can you expect?
Of course we work with our very best models during these workshops, so next to learning a lot you will also get a real portfolio boost. All workshops start with an Q&A session. In this session you can actually tell me what you want to learn and I will incorporate all these questions into the workshop ahead.

 

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Tip for light meters and ambient light

Often I get messages from people that their light meter is not reliable outside, inside no problem but outside…..
Do always remember that outside there is also ambient light.

Let’s say you have a small flash system (the system flashes like Canon/Nikon/Sony) and your shooting full manual and get a reading of F5.6 inside, now when you go outside a day later and you get F11 don’t expect that the strobe is actually on F11, it could very well be that the strobe is outputting only F8 or lower.

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The meter works very simple
When you press the button to meter in strobe mode (the lighting bolt) it will actually wait for a pulse and start metering, now the pulse from the strobe is registered of course and the meter does it’s work BUT if the ambient light (on the giving shutter speed) is higher than the strobe the meter will of course give you the F stop for the ambient light (since it overpowers the strobe).
So the next time you’re outside and want to check if your strobe is registering, or if you suspect a problem…. first set the strobe on the lowest setting and meter, now start raising the strobe and if the meter value doesn’t change you know you’re metering ambient (or in other words, ambient is overpowering the strobe).

 

So don’t bash the meter, understand how it works 😀

now let’s look at some solutions….

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Aimed light

One of the most difficult things to do is really aiming your light.
In a lot of workshops you will see big soft boxes aimed at the model from a moderate distance, this is of course very understandable for the simple reason that in fact you really can’t go wrong…. however the resulting image is often “a bit flat” and not that interesting lighting wise.

 

A next step is using smaller light sources like striplights or for example a beauty dish with grid.
For example in this shot I used a small striplight.

Roosmarijn Mei 22 2014  (73 of 155)-Edit

It can get way more interesting however when we start lighting our model from the back and creating a very dark front. Now normally one would let the model look upward to catch some light, but often that doesn’t really result in the image you want, a model looking towards the camera always has a little bit more….. connection, especially with glamour.

 

In the next shot I used a beauty dish from the back and lit the models face with a very small light source, in this case a snoot with grid.

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Sometimes a mistake can be cool

When using a digital back (in the case a Leaf AptusII7) on a camera like the Mamiya RZ67ProII one can run into a problem when shooting to quick… in 99% of the cases this means you can throw away the images, but sometimes an interesting image comes out.


What happens is that part of two images are mixed together but also a lot of “artifacts”. Normally the back will tell the camera when you can shoot again, but with the RZ67ProII there is no “communication” between the back and camera, so officially I have to wait for the beep….. when you don’t in the heat of the moment stuff like this can happen, it happens rarely but when it does…. very very rarely something comes out that is fun enough to share, but this time I think it was interesting.