Tag Archive for: workshop

model photography tips: Angles, lighting and guitars

/in , /by

It’s about the leading lines

Today it’s about one of those things that really can make or break a shot and other model photography tips. Let’s start with the angle.
When we talk about the angle of a shot we often immediately think about shooting from eye level, ants perspective, or the giant perspective.

The angle

We change the angle of a shot to get a different “vibe” in our shots. But also to create a more or less powerful character because it looks funky and great. Angles will really change the complete narrative of a shot. And don’t think it’s just with model photography, try putting your camera really low with landscape photography, maybe hover it over the water and you get some amazing shots. But there is more.

 

One of the things that always fascinated me was the creativity you could get from just choosing different lenses, apertures, and most of all the length of the lens when I started  with photography.

My start of model photography

When I started taking photography more seriously I wanted to invest in good lenses.
Because almost everyone was using 70-200 f2.8 or longer primes (85-135) for model photography…. well that was my choice.
I also used a 24-70 f2.8, mostly for street and casual photography.
Till my 70-200 broke and I was “forced” to use my 24-70 much more. And to be fair, I’m glad that happened because my 70-200 f2.8 hasn’t been used a lot after it was returned.

“why?” you might ask.
Well it’s actually very simple.

When you shoot with a 70-200 you’re always using a rather heavy form of compression. This is great for getting out-of-focus backdrops and fitting a model on a not-so-wide background (the field of view is narrower with a longer lens). But you will quickly find out that when you start using angles to shoot your models there is a difference but it isn’t “WOW”. Another model photography tip is.

To get the WOW effect we need distortion

 

And no, I’m not talking about a blaring Marshall with a tube screamer….
When we use wider angles you will find out one very important thing.

The camera doesn’t see “depth”. It just renders objects closer to the lens as larger and further away as smaller.
When we use a wider angle this means that this effect is exaggerated, you can get some really cool effects with this.

For example, make a model point towards the camera and shoot it at a wide angle setting.
But for today’s blogpost, we take a look at another example.

A model and a guitar

During the workshops, I often try to bring cool props and create together with the attendees “fake” ads, or artist shots.
In this case, we use a beautiful Epiphone guitar, and our model Felisa is seated on the stage in our studio.

Lighting wise I’m using the Geekoto Quicky softbox on a Geekoto GT400 as my main light source.
I’m using the Quicky because it focuses the light on my subject without having the softbox really close to the model.
For the red I’m using one Geekoto GT200 with a red gel from our Rogue magnetic system.

 

Flow in my image

To get a nice “flow” in the image I’m shooting from a lower angle and using the 24-70 on a setting between 24-40mm.
It’s always wise to take several shots with different lengths. Sometimes a client will love the wider angles during the session, but later decide they might be a bit “too much”. This is why it’s always a good decision to shoot from different angles and different lengths. This way the client can always choose.

Same with smoke by the way.
So the first image as you can see here is without the smoke.

But there are more model photography tips

By choosing the lower angle the model looks taller and more powerful.
I sometimes call this “the hero angle”.
But by adding the wider angle the distortion gives the images a very cool and powerful look.
Now that the base is done, let’s add some smoke.

Model photography tips

I did change the light slightly for this one to create a bit more “mood”.
And compliments to Felisa for nailing the same pose almost exactly.

When we did the first setup, I narrowed the light a bit more and moved the right strobe slightly to get a much more contrasty look.

Model photography tips

As you can see I’m now also including the red gel in the shot.
The problem with this shot is that it’s “very red”.

 

Same lights, different effect

By moving the red strobe you have total control over this effect.
For the next shots, we moved the red strobe a bit more back and this is the final look I went for.
However, that doesn’t mean someone will probably like the previous ones more. So always select maybe also some images when you are still experimenting. sometimes those shots are a lot more funky/creative or unique.

Model photography tips

By changing the angle of the head you can easily change the “flow” in your shot.
This is not a matter of good or wrong. Although in most cases I like the so-called S-curve in a photo.
However, in these images, we already have really strong guides by the legs and guitar neck,. So here the position of the head is more of a way to change the mood.

So if you’re still shooting with longer lenses…. maybe also try a wide angle sometimes 😀

 

Workshops are always fun

Most of the blog posts and videos you see online are created with material shot during the workshops.
I’ve been teaching them for over 15 years and in every workshop I try to create something unique for my own portfolio. But also for the attendees of course.
If you also want to visit a workshop visit www.fotografie-workshops.nl for the agenda and more information.
We can also teach the workshops online if you are not based in the Netherlands.

I hope you like these model photography tips. And if you have any questions, feel free to reach out on social media or e-mail.

 

 

 

A special Christmas scene with a beautiful background

/in /by

Christmas is a special time of the year

It’s a time where I hope we all find some time off, warmth or comfort.
It’s a time where it sometimes seems the world is just a bit more quiet.
And of course it’s a time of joy and celebration.

For me when I think of Christmas I always see a Charles Dicksens like scene, but with more warm tints and of course glowing lights. Let’s say a bit Fashion vs Charles Dickens.
During a recent session in our studio I joined the group for the last setup in building a small set with a Christmas tree.
We used our new scenic ClickBackdrops background, to get some some extra warmth I’m using a red gel from the left side aiming down from a high angle, this way it gave our model a nice accent and also side lit the tree a bit.

As main light I’m using the small Quicky softbox from Geekoto, this softbox it great for aiming your light to a smaller area than a conventional softbox and it worked great for this shot of Felisa.

I used Photoshop AI to extend the background and add a slight part to the Christmas tree and fill up the an area that was empty.
Boris FX was used to add 3 extra lights in the tree, making it all fit together.

When you try to get the image 100% right in camera, it’s often very easy to add what’s needed (if anything).
Using Photoshop AI this way is a great update and will really push the limits of what we can do creativity with photography.
Personally I’m not a big fan of text to image claiming as art, but using it to add to your photography where you build the set, setup the lighting, styling, makeup etc. I think it’s a great tool to make it possible create images much closer to our vision than ever before.


Working with a scenic backdrop tutorial video

/in , , /by

A warm scenic backdrop

It is a great start, but you can do much more with that backdrop than just use it as is.
In the previous blog post, we discussed creating depth in a scenic backdrop and I showed you some examples.
Today the video we shot during the workshop with Felisa where I explained the lighting setup and of course, how we build the set.

If you have any questions feel free to reach out, or leave comments.

 

Check the Scenic Backdrop Tutorial below

How to create depth in a scenic backdrop set

/in , /by

Today it’s about depth

Don’t get me wrong, I have nothing against creatively using AI. But for me using it to replace backdrops in all your shots, or even worse creating something from text to image and calling it art. Well, it’s not my thing. Today I’ll show you how to create depth in a scenic backdrop set.

When I shoot or teach the workshops I always try to use materials and backdrops in the studio. This means my images are 99% shot on set.
I always leave some marking, because I also use generative fill to extend a backdrop. Take out some things I didn’t see on set. Or just extend a set. But the whole idea, setup, etc. was done as much as possible in camera.

So why is that so important to me?

When I look at a picture I want to see depth.
And this is the one thing often lacking in AI-replaced backdrops, yes it looks great for an SF set, or Cosplay (use it a lot in those setups) but when you try to create something real, at least for me, it mostly fails because the backdrop and the model don’t “connect” in a natural way.

But what is different from using a scenic backdrop you might ask?

With a scenic backdrop, we use a backdrop that literally has a scene printed on it.
Using this as a backdrop can give you a great sense of depth even if it’s just a flat print. The reason is that if you place your lighting on your subject correctly and match the angles on the backdrops (very important to read the shadows), your light, model, shadows, etc. will all interact with the backdrop. Thus creating a much more believable setup.

But that’s not all.
It’s still just a model in front of a backdrop. This is why the least you can do is for example use a chair that is similar to the backdrop in style/color. Or maybe just the opposite (be creative). By angling the chair and your subject, and matching the light mood/color and angles you already have something really nice looking.

How to create depth in a scenic backdrop set How to create depth in a scenic backdrop set

But of course, we want more

One part of the workshop is set building.
And the scenic backdrop is great for this. this backdrop can help enormously by creating depth.
By adding props to the set you can not only create more depth in your image but it also looks a lot more realistic. Our mind seems to have less trouble with the “flat” background if it sees a lot of things in front of it.

During the workshops, I, of course, love a challenge. So in this case I added several continuous lights in the setup.
I’m using a nice focussed beam of light on my model via a small softbox on the lowest setting. And use the shutter speed to let in the amount of light from the continuous light I like.

How to create depth in a scenic backdrop set

So far so good, I really like this shot.
But when you want the sense of depth to be a bit more exaggerated it can be nice to also take some shots closer by with a wider angle.
This really draws the viewer more into the shot.

I also always tell the attendees of the workshops to shoot from different angles.
By changing the angle you can change the mood of a shot almost completely.

In the first image, I’m shooting from an elevated position down. It’s not my favourite shot to be honest but it does give you a different view.

When I shoot from a lower angle the whole look changes. Of course, I also asked our model Felisa to take a different pose, for the simple reason it gave the shot much more depth by the leading lines. But also much more power which was more fitting for the whole angle. But of course, opinions differ and that’s why it’s always smart to shoot from all angles 😀

The workshops

How to create depth in a (scenic backdrop) set is one of the questions I get a lot in the workshop

When I teach a workshop I always start with a Q&A
During the Q&A the attendees can ask whatever they want and during that period I actually “build” the workshop. This means all the questions are incorporated into the sets we shoot that day. This way I can always challenge myself, but also have different kinds of images for the attendees and myself. Every single workshop is unique.

If you also want to visit a workshop, check out photography-workshops.eu
All workshops are in Dutch, but if you let us know in advance we can change them to English.

If you can’t travel to our studio, we now also offer full-day 1:1 online workshops.
In our studio, with a model, 4-5 cameras, and a direct line for questions, plus you get all the RAW files to play with.
For more info: see here