Tag Archive for: angles

How to create depth in a scenic backdrop set

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Today it’s about depth

Don’t get me wrong, I have nothing against creatively using AI. But for me using it to replace backdrops in all your shots, or even worse creating something from text to image and calling it art. Well, it’s not my thing. Today I’ll show you how to create depth in a scenic backdrop set.

When I shoot or teach the workshops I always try to use materials and backdrops in the studio. This means my images are 99% shot on set.
I always leave some marking, because I also use generative fill to extend a backdrop. Take out some things I didn’t see on set. Or just extend a set. But the whole idea, setup, etc. was done as much as possible in camera.

So why is that so important to me?

When I look at a picture I want to see depth.
And this is the one thing often lacking in AI-replaced backdrops, yes it looks great for an SF set, or Cosplay (use it a lot in those setups) but when you try to create something real, at least for me, it mostly fails because the backdrop and the model don’t “connect” in a natural way.

But what is different from using a scenic backdrop you might ask?

With a scenic backdrop, we use a backdrop that literally has a scene printed on it.
Using this as a backdrop can give you a great sense of depth even if it’s just a flat print. The reason is that if you place your lighting on your subject correctly and match the angles on the backdrops (very important to read the shadows), your light, model, shadows, etc. will all interact with the backdrop. Thus creating a much more believable setup.

But that’s not all.
It’s still just a model in front of a backdrop. This is why the least you can do is for example use a chair that is similar to the backdrop in style/color. Or maybe just the opposite (be creative). By angling the chair and your subject, and matching the light mood/color and angles you already have something really nice looking.

How to create depth in a scenic backdrop set How to create depth in a scenic backdrop set

But of course, we want more

One part of the workshop is set building.
And the scenic backdrop is great for this. this backdrop can help enormously by creating depth.
By adding props to the set you can not only create more depth in your image but it also looks a lot more realistic. Our mind seems to have less trouble with the “flat” background if it sees a lot of things in front of it.

During the workshops, I, of course, love a challenge. So in this case I added several continuous lights in the setup.
I’m using a nice focussed beam of light on my model via a small softbox on the lowest setting. And use the shutter speed to let in the amount of light from the continuous light I like.

How to create depth in a scenic backdrop set

So far so good, I really like this shot.
But when you want the sense of depth to be a bit more exaggerated it can be nice to also take some shots closer by with a wider angle.
This really draws the viewer more into the shot.

I also always tell the attendees of the workshops to shoot from different angles.
By changing the angle you can change the mood of a shot almost completely.

In the first image, I’m shooting from an elevated position down. It’s not my favourite shot to be honest but it does give you a different view.

When I shoot from a lower angle the whole look changes. Of course, I also asked our model Felisa to take a different pose, for the simple reason it gave the shot much more depth by the leading lines. But also much more power which was more fitting for the whole angle. But of course, opinions differ and that’s why it’s always smart to shoot from all angles 😀

The workshops

How to create depth in a (scenic backdrop) set is one of the questions I get a lot in the workshop

When I teach a workshop I always start with a Q&A
During the Q&A the attendees can ask whatever they want and during that period I actually “build” the workshop. This means all the questions are incorporated into the sets we shoot that day. This way I can always challenge myself, but also have different kinds of images for the attendees and myself. Every single workshop is unique.

If you also want to visit a workshop, check out photography-workshops.eu
All workshops are in Dutch, but if you let us know in advance we can change them to English.

If you can’t travel to our studio, we now also offer full-day 1:1 online workshops.
In our studio, with a model, 4-5 cameras, and a direct line for questions, plus you get all the RAW files to play with.
For more info: see here

 

 

Outside fashion shot for sunglasses with extreme styling and flash Part V : let’s talk about something grungy

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The final setup

Today in the blog the final setup from the workshop “on location in Emmeloord”
In this workshop we use locations close to our studio, that at first sight might look uninteresting, but by using light/poses/angles and of course styling are still suitable to create awesome images.

If you didn’t already I highly recommend reading the previous blogposts.
Let’s talk about the flash
Let’s talk about gear
Let’s talk about storytelling 
Let’s talk about backgrounds and angles

For the final setup we are still using the same lighting setup with the same Geekoto GT200 with a large reflector.
This is what we sometimes call our “outside studio” or in other words a part of our studio (away from the public eye) where we just leave everything (within reason), so it looks very “grungy”/”urbex” this part is based around an old trailer with some bushes and is great as a location, especially when shooting from a low angle the fence in the background and the angle it creates can be very nice.

In this setup I’m also using HSS for the last images.
During the workshop I did not use HSS because when working during a workshop it’s better to shoot with a so called “dumb” trigger, this means I can setup the strobe with my Geekoto Commander  and just let the attendees shoot via their own trigger. HSS and ETTL only work correctly with a commander that fits your system. With Canon, Nikon and Sony we have special commanders, but this workshop we also shot with a Leica so the choice was made to let HSS rest till the end.

The main advantage of shooting HSS is that you can break the 1/125th second limitation of normal cameras/strobes.
By the way, Sony just released the first camera with a global shutter that will make it possible to shoot on much faster shutter speeds with strobes not using HSS. This is a HUGE deal for flash photography on location and will change the way you can work forever. I hope to be able to test one of them in the near future.

With HSS you can break this rule which means you can shoot day2night but still have a very shallow depth of field.
Now don’t just set your camera to 1/8000 and F16 ISO100 because you will be disappointed.
HSS is awesome but it takes a HUGE hit on your output. Where with a large reflector shooting F22 on ISO50 is no problem at all with HSS you will end up with a pitch black image not even seeing the strobe.

 

HSS Technique

Also with HSS I’m using the same technique.
I set the camera to manual and use the EVF (or lightmeter) to determine the look I like. But I do take into account that I leave the aperture below F4 and I try to keep the shutterspeed sensible, and only at the speed I need. When you are used to setting up for HSS you will find that it really adds a lot more different looks to your arsenal, and… that’s always a good thing 🙂

So let’s take a look at the final results… can you spot the images I was shooting with HSS?

Model/Styling : Nadine
Sunglasses : Sparks

www.fotografie-workshops.nl for the Dutch workshops
www.frankdoorhof.com/shop for my gear

That magic angle

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Often when shooting models, landscapes etc. we are shooting from the so called “eyes perspective”, meaning you hold the camera in front of your face and you shoot. This will indeed render the world/your subject the way that YOU see it… but is this the most interesting way… often not.

During workshops, seminars, demos etc. I always stress the attendees/viewers/visitors to really try out different ways of shooting a scene, not only do you trigger your own creativity but you also give your client, being your model or customer, more choices. And in all honesty, we are photographers not just “snappers” right? (hope that is a right expression by the way).

But experimenting with angles you are actually learning about the behavior of lenses, light but also about the poses of the model. This is incredibly important when you start out with photography and when you start with experimenting with poses etc. you will build a much stronger base for your future, at least that’s my opinion.

The shots in this blogpost were shot during a workshop with Anouk with the exact same light setup, as you can see by changing the angle I did not only change the look of the pose but also radically changed the behavior of the light. It may or might not be your taste, but at least try it 🙂

For much more tips visit www.frankdoorhof.com/videos and download our instructional videos
Or subscribe to www.youtube.com/frankdoorhof for free instructional material
And of course get my book “Mastering the modelshoot” via your favorite bookstore or amazon 

 

Low or high angles ROCK

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It’s all in the angles boys and girls…
Well not really, but they are very important.
Most of us start out by shooting images from the eyes perspective, pretty obvious because it’s how we see the world, no matter if you are vertically challenged, or tall like me we all see the world from our own perspective, so when we see images that way the “impact” can be much less than it would be if the photographer would have chosen a different angle, for example really high or really low.

Personally I love to play with these angles.
Don’t be afraid to include the sun in your frame also, in fact I often try to do this on purpose 😀

Here are two examples of a higher angle and a really low angle.
Go out and play with…. your angles…. or something like that 😀
Feel free to post some results.ingrid june 15 2016 0057