Tag Archive for: motion

How to very easily find out your flash duration

Flash duration and freezing motion

Freezing motion is fun

One of the things I always love to do during photoshoots is add some motion to the shots.
If you have ever tried this, you will probably know it’s all about timing. But even then, you probably noticed that sometimes the images are razor sharp and sometimes a bit blurred. How is this possible when you use the same strobes? Read more about flash duration and freezing motion.

The first thing you think is of course, that you probably timed it slightly differently.
But the reason is probably somewhere else.

Flash duration

You may have already noticed the flash duration in the specs of your strobes.
But how do you read this?
Well, that’s the problem when you see 1/1.000-10.000 T.1 or T.5. It probably doesn’t really ring a bell.
I will not make it too technical but see the flash duration as your shutter speed.

When you take a picture in your studio without strobes the images should be black. Because we have to take into account the X-sync in the studio (otherwise you see those nasty black bars) we shoot at 1/125 in the studio. Normally this would make it impossible to freeze motion. But because the flash is just a pulse MUCH faster than 1/125 it’s not a problem.

So that T.1 and T.5 values can be seen as your shutter speed (as a reference, it’s slightly more complicated).
For me, a T.5 value higher than 1/2000 is enough to freeze most motion. Anything higher than 1/5000 is awesome for really razor-sharp motion with models.

I already told you that the values don’t really tell the story. This is because they will vary over the output of your strobe.
Some strobes are super fast on the lowest setting, and some are the fastest on 75%
At first sight, you might think that it doesn’t really matter. But imagine shooting a jumping model on the lowest setting, that would not give you a lot of playroom with your depth of field. So, being able to shoot it with more power is very much needed. This is why most professional strobes have the fastest flash duration at 50-80%.

There are two ways to see the flash duration really fast.

Flash duration and freezing motion

Important gear for freezing motion

Sekonic 858

Although the Sekonic is a lightmeter it also has a great feature that makes it possible to measure the flash duration and even show the graph. But this is an expensive solution.

The fan

A much cheaper, but less accurate, and more fun way is to use a fan.
Put the fan on full power.
Place your camera on a tripod, adjust the strobe from lowest to full power, and take an image every stop (of course adjust the aperture).
In Lightroom you can now easily see in which images the blades are frozen most.

In this video, I tell you a bit more about freezing motion.

And some of the images from the video.

During the workshops, we talk a lot about technique, lighting, coaching the models, retouching, and in essence every topic the attendees want to learn about.
Do you also want to visit a workshop?
Most workshops at fotografie-workshops.nl are in Dutch, but if you let us know a few weeks in advance and we can switch them to English.

flash duration and freezing motion

How to shoot fire works or Christmas lights 

More about the light meter 

Don’t you just love motion

One of the things I absolutely LOVE to do is adding motion to a shot, especially freezing it.
For my classic portraiture series I’m working with some artists and actors to build a small series and one of the people on my list was Lorenzo.
Now maybe you know Lorenzo from “So you think you can dance” and the movie “Body Language” and if you do, you know this boy can move….

 

Lorenzo was more than willing to pose for the classic portraits (which I show later in the week), but he also had some cool ideas himself, and when a dancer has some ideas… well just go with it.

 

Today some of the results from that session.

Lorenzo  November 11 2014 0016

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Tip about posing and motion

Often people think that when you shoot an image you have to “pose” the model, and although this is true in some cases, for me it often works best to let the model pose “freely” let her/him find the poses that are comfortable and from there on I will slightly adjust the pose to make it “work” for me.
Adding motion brings in a whole new dimension, don’t let the model jump, but ask her to very slightly move her body away from the floor (yeah I know it sounds weird) this will not only give her/him a good laugh but also actually says exactly what she/he has to do.
Now if the model has a problem with the mouth (often it can be a bit “weird”) tell them to scream (without making sound) or shout “Shabang” (LOL) this will help enormously with relaxing the mouth or in other words not making it look funky.

 

An extra benefit of the small “jumps” is that it can also be done with strobes that have a slightly slower flash duration or if the model is wearing high-heels, because trust me… you don’t want a model to jump high with high-heels…. well actually the jump is not the problem but the coming down 😀

 

Good luck.
Manon October 3 2014 0874

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Skatepark….

Well ok I promised to not go to our skatepark again for some time…..
But let’s be honest where else to shoot a skateboarder.
Last week I was asked by one of the attendees to teach a 2 day 1:1 workshop about the different ways I shoot motion. Now as you know I love shooting motion so I was really looking forward to these workshops, and although I was suffering from the flu we still carried on 😀

 

These images were shot on the local skatepark.
The trick for mimicking air time can be very easy. Just use a wide angle lens and sit really low.
I used two Elinchrom ELC units here with maxi lights on an Inovatronix battery pack.

Melvyn Pluijmers Maart 13 2014  (69 of 81)-Edit

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