I love using the Lindsay Adler optical snoot from Westcott as my main lightsource as you have seen many times, but it’s also great for the more subtle effects.
Today in the blog I take you behind the scenes during a workshop where I use the optical snoot for a very subtle but great effect on our model/set.
When we buy lenses we often try to get the latest technology, the best quality etc.
But did you know there are loads of great lenses out there that you can buy for next to nothing that will give you awesome results?
Today a quick behind the scenes tips video on using those great vintage lenses in a live setup
There will always be something new, better and cooler.
And lenses are no exception. But is it always necessary to upgrade your lens?
Well sometimes yes, if a lens is a lot faster or has a longer/wider range that you need.
But before you run to the store for the latest and greatest also thing about this alternative.
One of the great things I love about the Sony cameras is that a few years ago I was able to use my vintage M42, Leica R, Minolta etc. lenses on my modern camera as autofocus lenses. And although it won’t break any speed records it actually works great. Those convertors are available from FotoDiox and TechArt but if you want to use something a bit more modern I can highly advise Sony owns convertor like the LA-E5
With a convertor like this you can use older Minolta lenses and A mount Sony lenses on your modern E mount camera.
And the fun thing.
You can get some great deals on vintage Minolta lenses and they are absolutely awesome.
For these shots with our model Janaika I’m using the Minolta 85mm F1.4.
Ofcourse with a lens like this you want to shoot close to, or wide open for that very shallow depth of field.
Make sure you also shoot under a slight angle to get that nice smooth silky transfer, when you shoot under a straight angle you will miss that effect for a large part. And for me it just makes the difference. And of course try some from a low angle but portraits like this can also look great from a higher perspective.
To create some extra depth to the image I’m now adding a side/accent light.
My favourite light shaper for this is a nice small striplight with a grid. And thanks to the Geekoto system I can now use gels behind the softbox meaning I can now gel a whole softbox with one gel from our Rogue magnetic system. But in this case I’m not using a gel.
The Geekoto system also makes it possible for me to shoot wide open, the strobes can be set to a very low output, which in this case makes shooting wide open very easy without the need for ND filters.
Also want to visit a workshop?
visit www.fotografie-workshops.nl for the agenda and more information.
As you know the light shapers we use determine how the light behaves on our model, set, and background.
lass=”yoast-text-mark” />>When you look at a light shaper, it’s pretty easy to predict how the light will fall on your subject, just follow the lines of the ribs. Today it’s just about 2 light sources and one background.
During the workshops, we always work with different light setups. And one of the setups in the essential lighting techniques is working with, for example, the Geekoto Lantern for a very broad light source, and, for example, the Rogue FlashBender XL in strip light setup
Now when you hear a broad light source, you might think it always means flat lighting. But that’s not necessarily the case.
When you move the light source to the side of the set, you get a beautiful shadow site on the model. And because of the open sides of the lantern, it will also light the background. If you think the shadow side is a bit too dark, you can easily place a reflector on that side because the lantern is a very broad light source. So, it “always” reflects back on a reflector on the other side.
But of course when we use a background with a floor part, I always want to shoot a full body image.
With the same light setup.
Well that’s ok, but what about adding some motion, and a lower angle.
It’s not perfect, but during the workshops I often take 3 shots and let the attendees shoot.
And even with a broad lightsource like the lantern you can still shoot very high contrast images, just use an extreme angle for some beautiful almost silhouette like shots.
Clients absolutely love these.
Now I was doubting about all the mess in the back, but… somehow it also really helps in the shot in this case.
The more I looked at it the more I thought “let’s just keep it in, it looks cool”.
So sometimes maybe leave the mess in the shot….
For the next setup I’m using the Rogue FlashBender XL from the side and slightly above the model.
We will upload a video in the blog soon to show it during the workshop
As you can see with the FlashBender the light is much more focussed on the model. You can’t see anything in the background. And even the brighter background doesn’t show up. But also due to the more focussed light beam you now get much deeper shadows. Using a reflector is now also becoming more complicated because you have to angle it very precisely.
For high contrast images the FlashBender can be placed very close to the model. Due to the fact the strobe is aiming straight up in the striplight you always get indirect diffused light. In other words very nice and relatively soft for a very small light source. But if you like to light your complete model you can just move the FlashBender further away. Or take the strip light off and attach the softbox diffuser, also there the trick is: indirect diffuse light.
Also want to visit a workshop?
Visit www.fotografie-workshops.nl
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