Tag Archive for: models

How to make wow images with sets and colors

Sets really add something

Often when I mention sets people think about big-budget solutions, but the opposite can be true, and mostly is in my work. In this article, I combine sets and colors to create WOW images.
It’s almost a sport to create cool-looking sets without breaking the bank.
So we also look for cool stuff on fleamarkets, attics, etc. you would be surprised what kind of “junk” you can buy for next to nothing that works great in a photoshoot.

And sometimes you use what’s there.
In this case, a customer brought in a huge projector for me to calibrate and it was packaged in a flight case. So…. yes indeed why not use it in a photoshoot?

Today a small tutorial on how to spice up a small set with a touch of color.

Model: Claudia
Want to visit one of my workshops?
Check www.fotografie-workshops.nl

Do you live abroad and is travel out of the question?
We have you covered there, book a full-day 1:1 online workshop in English or Dutch.
Just mail me for more info

Below the video, the results of how I made WOW images with sets and colors

Model : Claudia

How to make WOW images with sets and colors How to make WOW images with sets and colors

 

Read this blog for more sets with Claudia and colors 

Creating depth and contrast in your model/portrait photography

How to create depth and contrast in your model photography?

However, if we want to create depth we do need to change the direction of our light. And today we are looking at one of the solutions to open up the darker side and get some really cool effects. Continue reading how to create depth and contrast in your photography

Depth is one of those things

We all know the term “3D looking” And maybe you also struggle with getting your images to look more “3D”
In most cases, it’s “just” a matter of changing your light to the sides of your subject.
The problem is often that the other side of the face becomes really dark. And often also the background creates really bad looking images (unless you love that look).

For me, at least the background should be lit slightly beyond the dark side of the face. This means there is some separation between the model and the background. Letting everything turn black or hardly visible is sometimes cool. But most of the time you are just left with an image that doesn’t feel right.

 

Accent vs flare or maybe both

When I started out with model photography I loved the Rembrandt setup. But somehow I never liked the darker part of the face. The easiest solution is of course using a reflector. But, a reflector only works when it gets enough light to bounce back. Because I use my lights mostly pretty close to the model there isn’t a lot of light hitting the reflector hence not reflecting enough back to the model.

Inverse Square Law

This is of course due to the inverse square law. This dictates that light falls off over the distance, meaning if you place your lights really close to the model it will fall off really fast and not have enough “power” left to also reflect back on the face and have a major impact.

Solution

So most of the time I solve this by using an extra light source on that side.
Now you can choose to place this behind your model and just hit the side opening up the shadows, moving it slightly back to only light the jawline, etc. This already works like a charm but let’s up the ante.

By using a light source with a more diffuse light source, like for example the Rogue magnetic system without or with the omnidirectional dome we can do a lot more.

We can now not only create a cool lighting effect on our model, but by placing it correctly (slightly more forward or backward, just experiment with very small increments, this really works very precise) you can also balance it so that the side of the light (softer and less output) hits the model. Creating a beautiful soft quality of light. But the main part of the output actually hits the lens creating an awesome lensflare.

If you are not happy with your lens flares, try older M42 lenses. Or even better, get the same filter I use, the K&F concept black diffusion filters, these make it much easier to create great flares without influencing your images when you don’t use backlighting.

Video about creating depth

Ok, because images say more than words, let’s look at a lot of images after each other, which we call video 😀

I hope you now understand better how depth and contrast can change your portrait or model photography.

Visit www.frankdoorhof.com/shop for the gear I use.
Visit www.fotografie-workshops.nl for the Dutch workshops
Mail us for our totally new 1:1 full-day online workshops in English or Dutch.

And some of the results
model: Claudia

Depth and contrast in your photography

Depth and contrast in your photography

 

How to work with a brand new model

Tips for working with new models

Today you can see a special digital classroom episode.
You have been asking for it a lot and because we always listen you can now see how to work with a brand new model.

During this episode we show you the first shoot I did with our new model Janaika.
I show you some tricks I use to get the model at ease, but also loads of tips on lighting and coaching the model.
You see the lighting setups via 3 cameras and of course all the images I shoot are shown in a PIP setup.

Of course a workshop is always better

Most of the workshops I teach are in Dutch, but if you let us know a few weeks in advance we can also teach them in English.
We can even do them online.
fotografie-workshops.nl for more info

A surreal set and loads of colors

Workshops are always different

Want to know more about colors?
Check the following blog posts about color and color manipulation.
part I
Part II

One of the most important things for me when I teach workshops is that I have to keep challenging myself but also the attendees of the workshops
This means I’m always looking for new creative way to use light, color, backgrounds, sets etc.

Today some images we shot during a workshop with our model Claudia.
The lighting setup might look familiar.
I’m using two Geekoto strobes with a red and blue gel as accents.
To get the lensflare and blue light on top I’m using a Geekoto GT200 with a Rogue blue gel from the magnetic system.
On the model I’m using the awesome Rogue collapsible snoot with a green gel.

To help the lensflare I’m using a black diffusion filter on my lens (Sony A7RIV with 24-70 f2.8)

The set was build with 2 clickbackdrops backgrounds and a floor part.
Add some props and a very cool model + outfit and you just have to find the right angle 😀

And of course we had to take some closeups.

Now let’s take a look at the lighting setup.

Want to visit a workshop?

I teach the workshops in our studio in Emmeloord mostly on Saturday.
The workshops are in Dutch but when you let us know a few weeks in advance we can switch them to English.
Visit fotografie-workshops.nl for more info

An extra tip

As you have read Key is the luminance of a color.
This means that if you don’t have a correct exposure of your shot the colors will not look accurate.
Now of course sometimes you want a more moody look, but it’s important to understand the basis of color to be able to manipulate them the way you want.

To be able to judge your colors correctly you need a proper workflow.
For me this contains a lightmeter and colorchecker.
This means I get my exposure correct and with the colorchecker I can create a profile and white balance for that series.
And do remember this is just to get all the images looking the same so that all the presets you run or anything else in your workflow has an expected outcome.

On the side of the monitor I’ve been using BenQ monitors for years and can highly recommend them.
They have a great line up of professional monitors and a great line of P3 colourspace monitors (in between sRGB and Adobe RGB) for very affordable prices.
Besides great quality most BenQ’s also support hardware calibration. Which means you don’t calibrate your operating system but straight into the monitor.
This is a much better way of calibrating your screen than via standalone software and of course the software is delivered for free.
We have a few 10% discount codes for our European vistors, please contact me for more info.