Tag Archive for: light

A model and a wedding dress

/in , /by

Today some images from Claudia

During the workshops I always build up the set.
This way the attendees can see what every light does in the set and how they interact, and that makes it much easier to solve problems in the future.

So let’s take a look at some images from Claudia during one of the sets.

Let’s build it up

In the first image I’m mostly using my mainlight and just a very slight accent light with a blue gel.

Of course we want some more power on the blue.
With the Geekoto commander it’s very easy to change the output of the strobes individual.
What I mostly advise is to use group A for your main light, B for background, C for color or aCcents, and D for De rest (that’s Dutch for The Rest).
This way you don’t to figure out during a busy shoot what to change and where.

Walk around your model

Often it’s easy to fall into the trap that we have our favourite angle, or favourite lighting setup and we keep using that.
When I shoot or teach I always try to setup my lighting so I can easily walk around my model/subject and shoot from at least 2 different angles.
In this case I chose to disable the blue gel and just shoot with the main light.

For the final shot I removed the blue gel and now we have our main and accent light without gels.
By setting up the lighting this way and using a remote like the Geekoto Commander you can very easily switch lights on or off and also change the output. I will mostly keep my main light on the metered setting, but change the accents just the way I like the effect. In most cases I will shoot at least a few with loads of power and flares and some with just a little bit, your client will be very happy to be able to chose, and you will be happy because you will not ask you to deliver images A with the flare of B but without the …… 😀

Also want to visit a workshop?
Visit www.fotografie-workshops.nl

Using a projector for awesome and unique effects

/in /by

An unexpected awesome light source

You probably have use one during work, or maybe you have a great Home Theater system, projectors are used in many different situations.
They are awesome for gaming, presentations and of course movies.

But did you ever think about using it as a light source?
The main different between a monitor/tv and a projector is that the projector projects light onto a screen and that creates the image, where a monitor/tv is a flat screen. So what if we replace the screen for our model.

Now you can project whatever you want on your model

But what about taking it one step further
Open up Photoshop and go to full screen mode (F)
Now let the model sit in one location and start painting on the model with your brush.
If you need more space zoom out on the projector (or move the projector further away).
You can chose to keep the images sharp but you can also defocus the projector of course.

Using a projector is awesome for effects you can never achieve any other way.
You do have to take into account that most projectors are not very bright, so expect to shoot on higher ISO’s.
When using the projector chose the vibrant, or presentation mode, this often outputs a lot more light, but you sacrifice a lot in color accuracy which in this case…. is no problem at all.

Model : Janaika
This was shot during a workshop.
Do you also want to visit a workshop visit www.fotografie-workshops.nl

Two light sources

/in , /by

Two light sources

As you know the light shapers we use determine how the light behaves on our model, set, and background.
lass=”yoast-text-mark” />>When you look at a light shaper, it’s pretty easy to predict how the light will fall on your subject, just follow the lines of the ribs. Today it’s just about 2 light sources and one background.

Today, a quick tip about light shapers

 

During the workshops, we always work with different light setups. And one of the setups in the essential lighting techniques is working with, for example, the Geekoto Lantern for a very broad light source, and, for example, the Rogue FlashBender  XL in strip light setup

Now when you hear a broad light source, you might think it always means flat lighting. But that’s not necessarily the case.
When you move the light source to the side of the set, you get a beautiful shadow site on the model. And because of the open sides of the lantern, it will also light the background. If you think the shadow side is a bit too dark, you can easily place a reflector on that side because the lantern is a very broad light source. So, it “always” reflects back on a reflector on the other side.

two light sources

But of course when we use a background with a floor part, I always want to shoot a full body image.
With the same light setup.

two light sources

Well that’s ok, but what about adding some motion, and a lower angle.
It’s not perfect, but during the workshops I often take 3 shots and let the attendees shoot.
two light sources

And even with a broad lightsource like the lantern you can still shoot very high contrast images, just use an extreme angle for some beautiful almost silhouette like shots.
Clients absolutely love these.

Now I was doubting about all the mess in the back, but… somehow it also really helps in the shot in this case.
The more I looked at it the more I thought “let’s just keep it in, it looks cool”.
So sometimes maybe leave the mess in the shot….

 

Let’s change the light

For the next setup I’m using the Rogue FlashBender XL from the side and slightly above the model.
We will upload a video in the blog soon to show it during the workshop

As you can see with the FlashBender the light is much more focussed on the model. You can’t see anything in the background. And even the brighter background doesn’t show up. But also due to the more focussed light beam you now get much deeper shadows. Using a reflector is now also becoming  more complicated because you have to angle it very precisely.

For high contrast images the FlashBender can be placed very close to the model. Due to the fact the strobe is aiming straight up in the striplight you always get indirect diffused light. In other words very nice and relatively soft for a very small light source. But if you like to light your complete model you can just move the FlashBender further away. Or take the strip light off and attach the softbox diffuser, also there the trick is: indirect diffuse light.

Rogue FlashBender v3 XL Pro

Also want to visit a workshop?
Visit www.fotografie-workshops.nl

 

What a beauty, a yellow Ibanez RG505r

/in , /by

Modelphotography is loads of fun

But of course as a studio we also regularly shoot products.
And in essence you can use the same techniques you use for modelphotography on your products to spice it up.
And let’s be honest a product against a white background is very boring and been done way too often to make it a challenge. In our studio for example we use a Bresser product table or for the larger products white seamless, and although those images are great for a webshop it doesn’t really capture the attention of a viewer in a way they “WANT” that product.

But when we add some nice backgrounds, maybe a prop like a chair instead of a flat surface, add some accent lighting (and when color is not 100% vital add a color gel), maybe some smoke and before you know it you have a totally different product shot.

These images I shot during a small 1:1 workshop explaining our Geekoto system.
And when I have the chance I of course pick one of my guitars to act like a prop.

The one that started it all

In this  case (for the guitar lovers) the guitar that started it all, the whole metal/shred scene. The Ibanez RG550 in Desert Yellow, 1995.
Now the fun part, this is actually not a RG550 but a RG505r, it’s still the RG550 but only manufactured for the European market and has a different neck and black headstock, the R is for the fingerboard which is Rosewood, instead of the standard maple.

Ok so now why this information?
When we shoot a product or a business I always want to know what the product is, or what the company does, and most of all, which mood fits the product/company.
People often underestimate how much difference photos can make, a company can get a totally different “vibe” by using different angles or lighting. So we have to make sure we know exactly what we shoot.

We now know this is an important guitar in history.
We also know that they were know for the extreme colors.
Also the face there is a different neck and headstock in this sample.
And of course it’s a very versatile guitar mostly used for fast playing and rock/metal.

With this information I’m deciding what to do

For the first shot I’m using a nice “royal” looking chair.
This chair was the closest I had to something “royal”, also the blue works very nicely with the yellow.
I’m shooting from a lower angle to make sure I get that HERO pose here.
The headstock has to be in the shot, because it makes it clear it’s a RG505 and not a RG550. If you don’t know this detail it could very well mean your client will decline the whole series.
Because the pick guard and the yellow is very reflective we have a problem with reflections from the strobes.
This is where you always have to remember the “angle of incidence is the angle of reflection” so make sure you shoot under a different angle from the reflection. You can literally see this in the viewfinder. Also the yellow has to be nice and saturated.

We know that color has a luminance part and when we lower the luminance the color will become more saturated.
So to make sure I don’t have any reflections and my yellow is nice and extra saturated I’m angling the guitar slightly away from the main lightsource, it’s just a very slight angle but it does take away any glare and reflections plus it just makes the yellow a bit more saturated, combined with the blue from the chair it created a very nice and popping contrast.

Mainlight is a Geekoto GT200 with our Geekoto S26 softbox with grid
For a special effect I’m using a Geekoto GT200 with a blue gel from the side.
To get the lens flare nice and smooth I’m using the K&F concept black diffusion filters

Now this looks nice but…. I’m missing that “ROCK” feeling.
So lets pump up the power on the blue strobe to get more blue and flare in the frame.

Ok, now this is a lot nicer.
As you can also see that the angle under which you shoot makes a huge difference in “projected power”

But what if you want a lot more power in your shot.

So far I’ve been shooting almost straight on, so for the final shot I’m now shooting from a lower angle and from the side creating a totally different look. The shadows have a much larger part in the final look, and the blue gel has a much nicer effect.

Now in this final image you also see the reflection on the tremolo arm much better and thanks to the diffusion filter it gets a beautiful glow. Also as mentioned before the shadows have a much larger part in the final look. But by shooting under an angle you can also see that the blue light on the chair looks much more evenly.

So when you think you get the perfect shot, always try it from at least 2 different angles, you might be surprised how often you will use the extra images.

If you have any questions feel free to post them below this post, or on social media.

And before I forget

When you want the colors to be perfect it’s always necessary to use a colorchecker.
I’ve been using the Calibrite colorchecker passport for years and can highly recommend them.
When you shoot with gels make sure you take the colorchecker passport photo without the gels.
Shoot the colorchecker as flat as possible with your mainlight in the correct exposure (remember luminance is a vital part in your colorcoordinates) and you will get a perfect base every time you shoot. After that it’s of course the creative part to change colors, but the advantage is that when you need perfect colors, it’s there, but also that all presets you create will give the correct results, because they all start from the same base settings. This is something a lot of people forget when they claim they don’t need a colorchecker or lightmeter, it really saves loads of time on location, but even more when retouching.