Tag Archive for: glamour

Some colourful lights in the set

/in , /by

Adding continuous lighting is always fun

In todays blog post some images we shot during a workshop with out model Trista.
I’m using a mix of strobes and continuous lighting here.

Due to the reflective floor (plexiglas) and the mirror the angles under which you can shoot are slightly limited.
I loved this angle because it adds a bit to the story telling part of the shot.

Hope you like the results.
The set it build with isolation blankets we had left from our new roof instalment.
A good set doesn’t have to be expensive 😀

Over time you will collect things that you can always combine during photoshoot. Some people will decorate their whole house with little sets, in our case we just collect a lot of “junk” at flea markets, attics etc. we are always interested in things we can someday use. The only problem is room.

Always try to see possibilities, like in this set we used the isolation blankets. There were just laying around so why not use them.
I’m pretty sure you have a lot of stuff in your home that would make awesome set pieces.

Mixing strobes with available light for awesome model photography results with attitude and mood

/in , /by

Mixing strobes with available light

This blog post is about the workshop:  mixing strobes with available light. Why is it difficult? Or is that just the impression? An explanation and of course, some results with our wonderful model, friend, and stylist Nadine Stephan.

The problem of mixing strobes and available/ continuous lighting

For loads of photographers mixing available (or continuous) light and strobes can be a real challenge. Still in essence it’s incredibly simple.

We have to remember our famous triangle of ISO, Shutterspeed, and Aperture.
When combining flash with continuous lighting we always have to remember that the flash is a pulse and the continuous lightning is cumulative (meaning it adds up over time).

 

Our flash is also a lot more powerful than, for example, LED lights. This means we start with the strobe on the lowest possible setting. This is one of the reasons I always advise buying strobes that can be adjusted in a wide range and are not too powerful. We don’t need 1000W in a studio environment. But 200-400W is actually the sweet spot. Outside you can use the same strobes on HSS and literally kill the sunlight without any problem. In our studio for these setups, we use our Geekoto GT400 strobes and GT200/GT250.

ISO and aperture are important when mixing light sources

If we know the output of the strobe we have to of course also look at the lens we are using. It makes no sense to set the strobe to f1.4 when you’re shooting with a f2.8 lens. However, don’t adjust your strobes yet….. remember that we need as much light from the continuous light as possible. So if the strobe is not outputting enough,  just raise your ISO till you read f2.8 (if that’s your widest aperture).

Now that we know the ISO and the aperture we forget about those two.

Meaning you are not changing those anymore. Everything from here on is done with the shutter speed.
A faster shutter speed means the lights will be dimmer. Slower shutter speeds will make the lights appear brighter.
You can now exactly setup the shot exactly the way you want by experimenting with your shutter speed.

 

Some things to remember when mixing strobes with available (continuous) lights

 

Always start with an image without strobes and your intended continuous light to see what’s going on. In a perfect setup the image would be 100% black. Now add the continuous lighting first to see how it looks. And finally add the strobe (this is after we already metered everything and is more of a test to make sure there is no extra light, we don’t want in the shot).

When you can’t get your strobes low enough, you can always experiment with other modifiers. For example, a striplight with a grid will “eat” much more light than a beauty dish or open reflector. And if that’s still not working you can always think about adding Neutral Density  (ND) filters to your strobe (not the camera, because that won’t benefit you, due to the continuous light you have to mix).

Do always remember to turn off ALL the lights in your studio INCLUDING the model lights of course 😀
If you don’t, it won’t always be bad, but you have to realize that they will influence your image.

 

Some results from the workshop

During my workshops, we always try to do 3-5 sets. And during this workshop we managed 4 amazing setups. But because only 3 were done with mixing strobes and continuous lighting I’m just showing you these in this blogpost.

Model and Styling: Nadine

Set 1

Mixing strobes with availabe light

The model is lit by the strobe

Mixing strobes with availabe light

the lights blink in different colors

Mixing strobes with available light

different angle

For the first set, we used some Christmas lights on an umbrella.
I’m using a small beauty dish with a grid as my main light source. I included it in some images for some added effect.

Set 2

In this set we had to push the ISO a bit further because there were fewer lights and the whole set was pretty dark.
Here I’m using our Rogue snoot on a Geekoto GT200 and our magnetic dome from Rogue with a red gel on a Geekoto GT250 for some added effect.
The red gel is placed away from the model and by moving the camera position slightly forward and backward I have total control over the amount of red entering the set. This can give some great “art” looking effects without using Photoshop. In fact, all the images in this blogpost are largely straight out of the camera.

Mixing strobes with availabe light

We even used a red color gel from the side

Set 3

For this set I’m using the same Rogue Snoot but on a slightly wider setting.
This snoot can be used in 4 different ways (and if you add the diffusion option 8 :D)
And our intern is holding a Nanlite Pavo tube on red, from the right.

Mixing strobes with available light

Using a red and green led light (used for running in the dark). A blue color gel on the snoot. And a big red LED tune from the right.

 

Mixing strobes with available light is not difficult

I hope this blog post helps you a bit when you have to mix light sources yourself. It’s not hard at all but you do have to realize that you are working with higher ISOs. On modern cameras that’s not a real problem. But in some cases, you will need some noise reduction.

Also, take into account that with slower shutter speeds the model has to be completely still. The flash will freeze the face but if she/he moves it will register as a weird shadow line, and the rest of the image will be soft. As you can see in some images you can use this creatively but you have to be aware that it can happen (to use it).

For more info on our products please visit
Geekoto.nl for our hybrid strobes and soft boxes that collapse very small
ClickBackdrops.nl for our awesome backgrounds and floors
IQwire.nl for our 5 and 10mtr tether cables
Rogueflash.nl for our Rogue products

Some fun images with Nadine and crazy styling

/in /by

Today just some images I shot during a workshop with Gabe and Nadine.
With sets like this it’s always fun to experiment with different angles and expressions.
So walk around your model and sit down, or stand on a ladder, make it fun and creative.
And don’t be afraid to use your wide angle for some nice leading lines.

Oh… and even during lunch keep shooting 😀

Gold it almost hurt your eyes so much Gold

/in , /by

A background really makes the shot for me.
I recently had a whole discusion with someone about how AI would replace backgrounds and no-one would ever shoot against backdrops anymore. I don’t think I have to tell you guys I did not agree 😀

One of the reasons we sell our ClickPropsBackdrops is not just for the print on a backdrop, but also the material and how it interacts with lighting. Every backdrop I use will respond differently. For example our vinyl backdrops are more harsh and really pop when lit with hard light. Awesome for modern looking images where you really want some content that adds to the scene.

On the other side we have our Pro-Fabric which looks and shoots very like the old canvasses we all love but no-body really can afford. Plus they have huge disadvantages with tear and wear and wrinkles which means you can’t really do a spontaneous shoot unless you prepare your background.

During the workshops I could always shoot with the backdrops we have and never feel bored, but I also love to “freak out” with other materials and building (sometimes over the top) sets.

I always wanted something really eye-catching and we decided to build something with gold as main theme…. in all honesty it turned out WAY better than expected.

Lucky workshop
As soon as I took the first shots with my phone I already saw the quality of the background, this was going to be fun.
The idea was to let the light bounce around the set and just let it reflect where it “wanted” and see what happend. Normally I try to get the reflections out by using the angle of incidence is angle of reflection rule, but in this case I thought it would give a really nice look, and it was impossible to prevent because it’s not a straight wall but there were angles in the material all over the place, so keeping reflections out… impossible, and when something is impossible….. embrace it and make it part of the image, you will be surprised how often problems become awesome parts of a shot 😀

I started with just the fresnel on our model Claudia. And although I loved those shots, I also got a package in that morning with a special new guitar. My first headless guitar actually, and I just loved the look and thought it would look great in this set, so of course I could not resist (I always love shooting my guitars during workshops).

For the guitarists :
This is a Latitude low budget headless guitar.
But I can highly recommend it, it plays like it costs at least 700-800 euros, but is sold for under 300,00

Ok let’s take a look at the first shot.

As you can see the light scatters around very nicely on the set.
But this was a bit too dark for my taste, for this set I really wanted something that gave a lot of power.

So I added a Geekoto small softbox next to the Fresnel and used a yellow gel from the back hitting both the model and the walls which were setup in a 90 degree angle. The result was a lot better. Still attention to the model with the Fresnel, but a nice fill from the small softbox and the backlighting really added the glue to put everything together.

Sorry for the many photos but part of the workshop was also how to find poses with something like a guitar and I ended up liking way too many images.

Hope you guys enjoyed todays blog.
If there is anything you like to see in the blog just let me know.

See frankdoorhof.com/shop for the Fresnel, strobes and light shapers I use.