Results from one workshop….. probably more than you think

October 3, 2023/in blog, Visions and technique/by Frank Doorhof

Results from one workshop

We get a lot of questions about what I teach during workshops, but mostly about what you can expect for results. So I thought it would be fun to post all the images I retouched from ONE workshop. Let me show you the results of this workshop.

Before we start

Now to make one thing clear before we start. Some people call shooting images of a model a workshop. I don’t… I strongly feel a workshop should be an intense learning experience with loads of information, tips, questions answered, etc. So in every set, I try to add some things I know people struggle with.

During the workshops, I always try to do at least 3 to 4 totally different sets with their own problems and solutions 😀

The used products are linked to our webshop. If you have any questions, let me know. I am happy to answer them.

In today’s blog post the results from one workshop with our model Claudia.

For the first set, we used a box to pose our model in/on. The main idea was to get interesting effects in the background and how you can manipulate these.
Of course, the added element of the box triggers creativity.

I’m using a Geekoto GT400 with the small Geekoto softbox as the main light.
In the back, I’m using a Geekoto GT250 with the Rogue Magnetic Snoot. The main thing I love about this snoot is that you can use it not only in 4 different configurations but also can be used with or without a diffusion panel (this is without) which gives it a multitude of different looks. It’s one of my (many) favorite modifiers.

Now do remember these are WORKSHOP shots, so I shoot them while teaching, meaning they are okay, but far from perfect.

Set 1.

And of course, there are always more ways to shoot something than just one 😀

Motion

For the next set, it was all about styling colors and adding motion to a shot. To make sure you freeze motion it’s important to know on which setting your strobe has the fastest T01 value. I’m using a Sekonic 858 meter for this, which besides the exposure, also meters the flash duration.

And of course, coaching the model and getting the right moment is vital.

As a backdrop we used the the Rembrandt Brown vinyl 300x244cm

And of course, I couldn’t resist throwing in some different angles for a portrait.
It’s always fun to see the responses when I start shooting from “weird” angles and the attendees see the images coming in.

Clicki

For the next set, we are using the brand-new Clicki system from ClickBackdrops. This is a great solution for photographers shooting on location who are not willing to make any sacrifice in background quality.

I’m using a pro fabric version here. But vinyl is also an option (same price)
It’s great for portraits and 3/4 body. But I thought it would also be fun to use the backgrounds hanging in the back as a backdrop. So we placed the Clicki in between two other backgrounds, to create some more depth.

I mainly focussed on portraits and angles. Here are the results, and remember; this is still from one workshop.

What gear did I use to get these results?

For these images I’m using a Geekoto GT250 with my all-time favorite modifier, the Frank Doorhof Rogue FlashBender.
And of course, when it carries my name it should be my favorite right?
Yes and no.
The main reason I love the FlashBender so much is that it’s very easy to use a bounce card. You make background effects by bending the FlashBender. You can fold it as a snoot. And that is awesome during events to really make a couple or subject stand out, even if the available lighting is poor ( like on some weddings during the dance). Or use it as a small softbox…. but mostly I use it as you can see here, with the striplight attachment and grid.

The cool thing…. when you buy the Frank Doorhof FlashBender everything is in the box 😀

The next results

For the next set, we decided to play with “light in light” where we focused the light in the model. With for example a snoot or in this case a Fresnel, opening up the shadows with a fill-in flash, often with a colored gel. The main light is the Nanlite Fresnel on a Geekoto GT400. and the Rogue magnetic system on a Geekoto GT250 as a fill-in flash. I’m using a blue gel to very slightly open up the shadows.

Of course, we also shot some portraits.

But there are more results

After these images, I thought it would be cool to throw in a microphone as a prop. And explain some very powerful techniques where I combine feathering with “fake” reflections by angling the light just correctly around the model. This is a very powerful technique to create stunning almost silhouette-like shots.

In this setup, I’m still using the Nanlite Fresnel on a Geekoto GT400. But the blue gel was now moved to the opposite side. Depending on the effect I wanted (the angle I’m shooting from) we just angled the strobe aiming it toward the camera. Love the results from this technique. When walking around your model you get a lot of different looks.

By adding the blue gel into the frame the total look and feel of the shots change.

Frank Doorhof Workshops

If you like these results and are looking for a workshop that’s totally different from just shooting images (a shooting zoo), make sure to check out fotografie-workshops.nl Here you can find information about the Dutch workshops (and location workshops abroad). Most workshops in our studio are in Dutch, but if you let us know in advance we can switch to English, most Dutch people speak and/or understand English.

1:1 workshops are always possible

PS: During this workshop, I also tried to shoot some images with the new iPhone 15 Pro Max. Can you spot them?

Get your white balance correct easy and fast

September 18, 2023/in blog, Visions and technique, Webinars and instructional videos/by Frank Doorhof

When working with photos or videos the correct white balance is essential to get natural looking images/video.
But it’s also important when you use presets to tint your images, if your base is not correct every time your presets will look different every time.

When shooting raw you can correct a lot yourself, but with video it’s often not that easy because you’re shooting on a compressed format. Today in the video a quick tip on how to get proper white balance on you video camera, or photo camera in a few seconds with the brand new ExpoDisc V3.

that awesome Rembrandt lighting

September 8, 2023/in blog, Visions and technique/by Frank Doorhof

In todays blog post a video about one of the most beautiful lighting setups, the Rembrandt setup.
I also show you my favourite way of making this setup even better by adding an accent light.

You also get to see our new Geekoto softbox and the Rogue Flashbender.
If you have any questions, feel free to ask

You can get the products I use in our webshop by following the links.

How to mix light sources flash and continious

July 26, 2023/in blog, Visions and technique/by Frank Doorhof

There is a lot to say for powerful strobes.
But always remember that now a days cameras have no problem at all with ISO200-400-800 or even 1600. Alle are perfectly usable in a studio setting. So although a 1000W strobe with spotlight sounds awesome in the studio it’s unusable because even on the lowest setting you will break the X-sync which prevents most studio strobes to shoot above 1/125 of a second.

Mostly in modern studios you can get away with 100-200-400w strobes, and in most situations you don’t even have to raise your ISO above 100, a little bit depending on the light shaper of course because every light shaper will take away or add light output depending on the material.

A fresnel for example will give you a tremendous light output compared to a striplight with narrow grid.

So when we start to combine light sources we have to realise that we are mixing an often very faint light source, for example tungsten lightbulbs or Christmas lights with a very high powered light source like a strobe.

As you can probably guess the problem is not in the output, it’s actually in the lack of output.
This is why when you buy new strobes it’s very important to not only focus on output, but mostly on the amount of stops you have available. A 200W strobe with 3 stops of range is much less usable than a 400W strobe with 7 stops of range. So one might think to get the 200W strobe when mixing in very faint light sources, but in this case the 400W actually works better because you can put it a lot lower in output.

Also the modifier you chose will have a huge impact.
I love using my own Frank Doorhof flashbender for these kind of shots, I will use it in the striplight with grid setting for this. It will still spread enough for a 3/4 body shot from relatively close, but it’s also very narrow on the sides preventing spill light. It’s really perfect for these setups. But I also often use strip lights or even an umbrella feathered to the extreme edges for these kind of shots. During the workshops I always vary so it’s clear it can be done with almost everything, but the flashbender is the best solution in this case 😀

What I normally do is setup the mainlight source (strobe).
I will set the strobe on the lowest setting and meter the light. At that moment I don’t care if it’s f2.8 ISO3200.
When I know the strobe output I know that when shooting on f2.8 ISO3200 I will get a properly lit model on every shutter speed as long as it’s below 1/125 (x-sync)

Now I will turn on all the extra lights and take the first shot on 1/125.
In most cases it will be nice but a little but too dull for the continuous light.
The trick is now that by lowering your shutter speed you can let in more of the continuous light and “build” the perfect exposure.
As long as you don’t change the ISO or aperture your strobe will be constant and with the shutter speed you control the continuous lighting to the effect you like.

For me personally this is one of the things I love to do with the Geekoto strobes.
Seeing they have their heritage in the speedlight family they have a huge range going from 1/128 to 1/1 which is a huge range and often means that if you choose your lightshaper with some grids you probably not even have to shoot on the lowest setting 😀

I hope the next time you have to combine light sources you remember that the ISO/Aperture determine the strobe and the shutter speed the continuous light.

PS.
Remember that in most cases light sources can/will vary in colortemperature.
You can chose to do nothing and just mix them, which can be great.
Or (much better) make sure you have a so called color correction kit with gels you can place in front of your strobes to mimic the color temperature of the light source you mix with the strobes. A calibrite colorchecker, or white balance card is essential to get it all in sync.

Here you can find our color correction kits
For round strobes, speedlights and magnetic systems.